RGB OBD for Android
Live car gauges on Android
RGB OBD turns an Android head unit or tablet into animated gauges, a drive computer and a diagnostic scanner, using the OBD-II port every modern car already has.
The whole app in three minutes
A narrated tour of every feature — the gauges and their seventeen designs, swappable readouts, the speed-limit sign, live graphs, the drive computer, plain-English fault codes, the four workshop tests, the adapter test and alerts — recorded straight from the app's demo mode.
One app, the whole picture
Plug a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter into the diagnostic port your car has had since the early 2000s, and RGB OBD reads what the engine computer sees: revs, speed, temperatures, voltage, fuel — live, many times a second. It is built for the landscape screen of an Android head unit and works just as well on a phone or tablet.
Everything is drawn by the app itself — no ads, no accounts, no tracking, and the whole install is under one megabyte. Start it from one screen: gauges, live graphs, drive statistics, the scan & tests menu, adapter pairing, settings, and a demo mode that shows every feature with simulated data before the app ever touches your car.
See it running
This is the app's demo mode recorded straight off the screen — the same moving needles and live-updating readouts you get on the road, fed by simulated data. Step through every design with the arrows, just as you would in the car.
Neo Cyan — 1 of 18
Live gauges, seventeen designs
Animated tacho and speedo dials with readouts for coolant temperature, battery voltage, throttle, engine load, intake temperature, fuel level, boost and learned gear. Seventeen dial designs — plus a full-screen trip computer — switch on the fly with the arrow buttons, and a long-press on most readout cells lets you choose what that cell shows. And if none of them is quite right, you can build your own layout.
Build your own layout
If none of the seventeen designs is quite your dashboard, draw your own. Tap the pencil button on the gauges screen, pick a grid of up to five columns by three rows, and fill each box with a gauge: a dial, a backlit ring, a deep dial, a half dial, a segmented bar, a mini bar or a plain readout, showing speed, revs or any of the sixteen readings the cells offer. A box can span columns and rows, so a big speedo sits happily beside a stack of small readouts. Every box can also wear any of the built-in skins, and because a skin carries the needle-or-sweep choice, a sweeping speedo and a needle tacho share one screen without argument.
Saved layouts join the arrow rotation after the built-in designs, up to eight of them, and a long-press on any box swaps its reading just as it does on every other design. The speed and rev scales follow your settings, and the speed-limit sign and the alerts work over your layout exactly as they do over ours.
The road's speed limit, on the dash
The gauges can show the current road's speed limit as an Australian-style sign, in every design — each one gives it a spot clear of the readings. The device's GPS places the car on the road, and the limit comes from OpenStreetMap's community road data, fetched a ~2 km map area at a time so a whole drive costs a few kilobytes. Drift past the limit and the sign pulses at you until you're back under — and how far over that starts is yours to set in settings, from the moment you pass the sign to a wider margin.
The sign needs two things the rest of the app doesn't: the Location permission and an internet connection while driving. Without either — or on a road the map doesn't know — the sign simply stays hidden and every gauge keeps working. Mapped limits can be missing or out of date, and school zones aren't timed, so treat the sign as advisory: the posted signs are always the authority. You can switch it off entirely in settings. Speed data © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Live graphs
Four strip charts running side by side, each plotting whichever reading you long-press it to show — speed, revs, battery voltage, coolant, boost and more. The chips along the top set the window anywhere from one minute to an hour, and RESET clears the traces and starts the clock again from zero. A dropped link draws as a gap, not a made-up line — the chart never invents data the car didn't send.
Drive statistics
What the drive added up to: distance, time spent moving and time spent idling, fuel used and average economy — integrated from the same readings the gauges poll. Beside them, the records: the session's top speed, revs and boost, your best 0–100 km/h and 400 m times, and a chart of where the revs actually spent their time, band by band. RESET starts a fresh session; your best times survive it.
Is your adapter any good? Test it
Cheap OBD dongles all call themselves ELM327 — some are the real command set, some are a thin imitation. The adapter test grades yours tier by tier against the official ELM327 command table, measures its response time, and tries a command that doesn't exist: a genuine chip politely declines, and a clone that says OK to nonsense gives itself away. The row that matters most is RGB OBD's own — the exact commands the app uses in the car. All green there and the gauges will run, whatever the label says. No car needed: the test runs anywhere the adapter has power.
A proper drive computer
The Trip Comp design tracks instant and average fuel economy (L/100km), fuel used, trip distance and estimated range — using the car's airflow sensor when it has one, or a manifold-pressure estimate when it doesn't. The gear comes straight from the car when it reports one and is worked out from your gear ratios when it doesn't (how the gear reading works), and a standing-start timer arms itself whenever you stop: 0–100 km/h and 400 m times, with your best runs kept. Tap the trip to reset it or the timer to clear the times — the app asks before wiping anything.
Scan the vehicle before the workshop does
The Scan & Tests menu is the app's diagnostics bay: the Full Scan as the big tile, with four specialist tests — O2 sensors, EVAP, inspection readiness and battery — beside it. Opening the menu costs nothing; the adapter is only connected once you choose a scan or test to run.
The Full Scan runs the whole standard diagnostic sweep: check-engine status, stored, pending and permanent trouble codes, the freeze frame captured when a fault was confirmed, readiness monitors, fuel trims, the VIN and calibration ID, and exactly which readings your car supports. Codes can be cleared from the app — behind a confirmation that spells out what clearing really does.
Every code is named from a built-in catalogue of over five hundred SAE definitions — and tapping a code opens a plain-English detail sheet: what the fault actually means for you as the driver, its common causes in rough order of likelihood, and how urgent it is — from "fix it when convenient" to "stop driving". The sheet also says which of the car's computers reported the code — engine or transmission — and notes when the freeze frame belongs to it. Manufacturer-specific codes are labelled honestly as exactly that, never guessed at.
It reads the standardised emissions and powertrain system that every OBD-II car exposes — the same data a generic workshop scan tool starts with.
Four tests a workshop would bill for
Beyond the fault codes, the Scan & Tests menu reads the checks the car runs on itself. Three of them come straight from the engine computer's own records — its self-test results with the pass limits it set for itself — and the fourth uses the adapter's built-in voltmeter. Every verdict is honest: where a car doesn't publish a result, the screen says so instead of inventing one.
O2 sensor test
Every oxygen sensor's own report card, sensor by sensor: threshold voltages, switch times, minimum and maximum voltage — each reading shown between the pass limits the ECU itself applies, marked green or red. Live sensor voltages sit alongside, so a sensor stuck at one voltage gives itself away. A failing row here often explains a catalyst or oxygen-sensor code before the light ever comes on.
EVAP test
The evaporative system holds fuel vapour in; a leak — even one from a loose fuel cap — sets the light. This screen reads the car's leak-check results from the gross-leak check down to the 0.020″ standard, plus the system's vapour pressure right now — the difference between "tighten the cap" and "book it in", before a workshop smoke test.
I/M readiness — would it pass an emissions inspection?
The exact things an inspection station's tool checks — the warning light, confirmed codes, and how many readiness monitors have finished their self-checks — turned into one verdict: would pass, not ready yet, or would fail. It even applies the right allowance for your car's year, and explains what to do when monitors are still running after a battery disconnect or a code clear.
Battery test
The adapter measures the voltage at the OBD port itself, so this one needs no ignition and works on any car — including imports the other tests can't reach. Watch the live trace through a start and the screen files what it sees: resting voltage with everything off, the dip while cranking, and the charging voltage once the alternator takes over — each judged against the standard figures, in plain words.
It watches the car so you can watch the road
Overheat & low-battery alerts
A full-screen flash and beep for hot coolant or a sagging battery, at thresholds you set. Tap the banner to silence that activation.
Over-rev warning
Set your redline and the app flashes when you cross it — or keep just the red zone on the dials and turn the banner off.
Warm-up guard
The rev readout stays tinted blue until the coolant passes 60 °C — a quiet reminder not to lean on a cold engine.
Auto-reconnect & launch on boot
A dropped link retries by itself, and on a head unit the gauges can start the moment the ignition powers the screen.
Set up for your car, not a generic one
Pick your exact car — year, make, model and trim, from a catalogue of 17 makes as they were sold in Australia from 2000 on — and the app names it on screen and draws the make's badge faintly behind every page, as strong or subtle as you like. Gauge ranges, redline, engine size and tank capacity, alert thresholds and display scale are all yours to tune.
Every setting, explained
Car
Year, Make, Model, Variant/trim name your exact car on screen and pick its badge. Engine size (L) and Fuel tank (L) feed the drive computer — economy estimation on cars without an airflow sensor, and the remaining-range figure.
Gauges
RPM redline draws the red zone and arms the over-rev alert. Tachometer max and Speedo max set the dial ranges. Speed adjustment (%) and RPM adjustment (%) calibrate those readings against the car's own dials — 100 is no change; 105 shows 105 when the car reports 100. Battery adjustment (±V) and Fuel adjustment (±%) shift those two readings to match your car's own cluster — OBD voltage is measured at a control module and often reads a few tenths below the battery, and fuel senders rarely agree with the dash needle.
Alerts
Coolant alert (°C) and Low battery alert (V) set the flash-and-beep thresholds — 0 turns one off. Show over-rev overlay controls the full-screen redline banner pictured in the Alerts section above; untick it to keep the red zone on the dials without the banner.
Startup
Launch gauges when the device boots — made for head units that power up with the ignition, so the dials are on screen before you're out of the driveway.
Display
Device sizes the dashboard for your screen — leave it on Auto or pick a head-unit profile to preview one. UI scale (%) fine-tunes that. Text size (%) grows menus, lists and dialogs alone — for head units where labels read small; the gauges are never affected. Badge (%) fades your make's emblem in behind every screen — 5 is a watermark, 0 turns it off.
Registration
Lists every vehicle registered on this device — the car you're plugged into is marked as current — each with its own Deregister button for moving that licence to your next car, the workflow pictured in the Licensing section below.
Japanese import
Toyota Japanese import (JDM) — for grey imports that answer fault-code requests but refuse the standard live-data ones. While ticked, the gauges also speak Toyota's own 21-series diagnostic dialect — the way many JDM Toyotas read their dials — and with the engine off the app stands by, disconnected, reconnecting by itself once the engine is running.
What you need
Two things: an Android device (8.0 or newer — a head unit, tablet or phone) and a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter. The app is built and tested with the Vgate vLinker MC+ Bluetooth 4.0 OBD2 scanner — a dual-mode adapter that speaks both Bluetooth Classic and BLE, so it pairs with head units and modern phones alike.
- Plugs into the OBD-II port — under the dash, driver's side, on most cars
- Bluetooth Classic and BLE — the app supports both, no cables
- Protocol is auto-detected, including older ISO 9141-2 cars
- Widely available online for around the price of a tank of fuel
Other ELM327-compatible Bluetooth adapters generally work too — the vLinker MC+ is the one we test every release with, and the three below are verified against the app's protocol.
Also works: verified alternatives
OBDLink LX
Bluetooth Classic on a genuine STN chip that speaks the full command set the app uses — every gauge, the VIN registration and the vehicle scan. The budget pick of the pair, and it gives RGB OBD everything it asks for.
OBDLink MX+
The premium model — same command set on a faster chip. Its headline extras (Ford/GM-specific buses, iPhone support) sit outside what RGB OBD needs, so the LX serves the app just as well; buy the MX+ if you also use other software.
Vgate vLinker FS Bluetooth
The recommended MC+'s Ford-specialist sibling, from the same firmware family. Bluetooth Classic, the full command set the app uses — its FORScan extras (Ford buses, module-programming voltage) simply go unused here.
One habit these three share: the first time you pair, press the connect button on the adapter itself — it stays invisible until you do. After that it reconnects like any other.
Road-tested on our own cars: the budget four
The app works with all four. They sit at the cheap end of the market though, so expect the quirks we noted below, mostly on newer European cars, where the bus works an adapter hardest; on everyday cars they simply do the job.
Vgate iCar Pro (BLE)
The MC+'s BLE sibling, a fine pick for a phone or tablet. On newer European cars expect the odd dropped connection, which the app restores by itself.
KONNWEI KW905
Dual-mode and dependable on everyday cars; expect slightly slower response on newer European ones.
KONNWEI KW901
The Bluetooth Classic sibling of the KW905, and it behaves the same: great value for everyday cars.
JFIND JF327
Works over Classic and BLE alike; expect some response slowness and the occasional brief hiccup on newer European cars.
Still weighing it up? The full adapter guide compares all eight, explains the findings behind these notes, and covers the cheap-clone question.
Installing it
RGB OBD isn't on the Play Store — you buy it here and get a direct download link to RGB-OBD.apk, an Android installer under 1 MB. The link stays valid, so you can re-download it any time without paying again.
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1
Get the file onto the device. On a phone or tablet, just open the download link on the device itself. Head units often have no usable browser — in that case download it on a computer and copy it across with a USB stick, or use the unit's own file manager.
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2
Allow the install. Tap the APK and Android will ask permission before it will install anything from outside the Play Store. On Android 8.0 and newer this is granted per app: the prompt sends you to Install unknown apps, where you enable it for whichever app you're opening the file with — your browser or file manager — then come back and tap the file again.
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3
Pair the adapter. Plug the OBD-II adapter into the port under the dash, turn the ignition on, and pair it from the app's Adapter screen.
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4
Register in the car. With the ignition on and an internet connection, tap Register this app. It reads the VIN from the engine computer and unlocks everything. That's the only time it needs internet — driving works entirely offline afterwards.
Prefer it step by step, per device? The install guide walks through head units, tablets and phones separately.
What your car reports — and why a gauge might sit still
OBD-II standardises how a car answers, not what it has to answer. Every compliant car exposes the core emissions and powertrain readings, but past that the list varies by make, model, year and engine — two cars on the same showroom floor can report different things. The app can only display what your engine computer actually sends back.
So if a gauge never moves, the usual reason is that your car doesn't report that value — not that the app is broken or the adapter is faulty. No app can show a reading the car never sends, and that limit is the same for a $2,000 workshop tool.
How to know for certain: run a Full Scan from the Scan & Tests menu. The report lists exactly which readings your car supports. If a reading isn't on that list, the data never leaves the engine computer — nothing on the app's side can change that.
Japanese-market imports are the big exception — and where RGB OBD goes further than most apps. Some JDM-built vehicles answer only the manufacturer's own diagnostic dialect, not the standard OBD-II live-data service. On those cars any app's adapter plugs in and connects, a fault-code scan may even work, but the live gauges stay dark. For Toyota imports, RGB OBD has an answer the free apps don't: tick Toyota Japanese import (JDM) in settings and the gauges also speak Toyota's own 21-series dialect — proven in a real JDM Toyota, not just on paper. Imports from other makes — the Mitsubishi Delica and similar — can still be dark, and the app checks this for you during registration: it probes the car first and warns you before your licence is used if the car offers no live gauge data. Driving an import? If a free OBD app shows RPM in your car, RGB OBD will work too — and on a Toyota it can work where the free apps show nothing.
The gear reading works two ways — and most cars need the second one. Some cars publish the gear the transmission is actually in, and where that's on offer the app simply shows it, straight from the car. Most cars publish nothing of the sort, so the app works the gear out for itself from the ratio between engine revs and road speed: each gear holds its own near-constant ratio, so the app learns your car's ratios as you drive and matches the live one against what it has learned. Gears you spend real time in are picked up within seconds; one you rarely hold — first, or a tall top gear you only meet on the motorway — can take a few drives to settle. What it learns is saved, so the next drive starts out already knowing your car.
When the ratio can't be trusted, the app shows a dash rather than a wrong number. That's normal below roughly 15 km/h, at very low revs, and for a moment during a shift or with the clutch in — the clutch or torque converter is slipping there, so the ratio means nothing. It's also why an automatic never reads quite as crisply as a manual, and why a car that reports its own gear beats any amount of working it out.
To see which kind your car is, run a Full Scan and look for Actual gear. If the report lists it as not available on this car, the gear on your gauges is the app's own working-out — which is expected, and no app can do better on that car.
Normal things that look like faults
- Readings that only move in certain conditions. Boost needs a turbo or supercharger and only climbs under load. Coolant temperature sits low until the engine warms. Some sensors report nothing at idle.
- Estimated rather than measured values. Fuel economy uses the airflow sensor when your car has one, and a manifold-pressure estimate when it doesn't — close, but it won't match the dash figure exactly.
- A gauge that works on one car but not another. Same app, different car — that's the vehicle, not the design you picked.
- A slow or clone adapter. Cheap ELM327 copies drop readings or refuse some protocols. If several gauges are erratic at once, suspect the adapter before the car.
If the scan lists a reading as supported and its gauge still won't move, that's worth reporting — contact us with your car's year, make, model and engine and we'll look into it.
Licensed per car — and one app holds your whole garage
RGB OBD is licensed to your vehicle, not to a device count. Registering takes a minute in the car: the app reads the VIN straight from the engine computer, shows it to you, and activates online. After that no internet is needed while driving — every connection simply confirms, locally and in under a second, that it's still your car on the other end.
More than one car? Register each licensed vehicle from inside it and the same app carries them all. It reads the VIN on every connection and switches by itself — plug into one car and its gauge ranges, redline, tank size and badge appear; plug into the other and its profile takes over. Nothing to pick, nothing to reconfigure, on as many devices as you like.
Changing cars? Deregister from the settings screen — the app asks for your new car's VIN and moves the licence to it on the spot, ready to register in the new vehicle. Transfers are protected by a device link created when a car is first registered, so only your own device can move a licence. The demo mode is always open, so you can explore the whole app before registering.
Licence, copyright & distribution
RGB OBD is licensed, not sold. Your payment buys the right to run the app for one vehicle, for good — the app itself, its gauge designs and its artwork stay ours. Here's the whole arrangement in three parts.
What you get
- A perpetual licence for one VIN — no subscription, no expiry
- Installs on as many of your own devices as you like
- Transferable to your next car from the app's settings
- Private or commercial use of a vehicle you operate
Sharing the app
- Send anyone to the official download page — the installer is free to download
- It stays locked until it's registered to a licensed VIN, so the link is safe to share
- Don't re-host, mirror, torrent or upload the APK elsewhere
- Don't resell, rent, bundle or repack it
Copyright
- © 2026 RGB OBD — all rights reserved
- Covers the app, installer, gauge designs, artwork, name and logo
- Buying a licence transfers no ownership
- Your driving data is yours; it never leaves your device
Fitting head units or running a fleet? Installing the app for customers or across a fleet needs a distribution arrangement — talk to us and we'll set one up.
The full Licence & Copyright agreement has the detail, alongside the Terms of Service and Privacy Policy. Android is a trademark of Google LLC; Vgate, vLinker and ELM327 belong to their owners — RGB OBD is an independent product.
Buy RGB OBD for your car
$99.00 AUD
$74.99 AUD
One payment, one vehicle licence — no subscription. Enter your car's VIN at checkout, pay securely through Stripe, and download the app straight away. Own several cars? Buy a licence for each — one app holds them all and switches automatically. Not sure yet? The installer is free, and demo mode runs every screen on simulated data — try it before you pay.
Questions first? The FAQ covers cars, adapters, licensing and installing — or contact us and we'll help with the adapter and setup.